Edinburgh
The second half of my Ancestry trip led me from my father’s side - the Richards - from Cornwall, England, to Edinburgh, Scotland - home of my Mother’s side of the family, Clan MacCallum! Edinburgh is truly one of the great cities of the world - small enough to be walkable and human scale, full of castles, monuments and museums, and - for a crazy but wonderful 4 weeks of the year in August, the city turns into Festival Town with the arrival of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and the Military Tattoo. I did the Tattoo (do NOT miss the bagpipes from around the world) and the Fringe years ago and saw opera, one man stand- up comedy, street buskers and Shakespeare all in a few days…don’t miss the largest festival in the world! Plus, Edinburgh is an easy jumping-off point to the Highlands - so this city is as strategically placed for a good time as any. With the addition of the BRAND NEW W Hotel (Nov 2023) in the heart of town, Edinburgh finally has a place that is more hip than History. I cannot recommend the W enough as a home base in Scotland.
W Edinburgh
A sinuous, swoopy sphere with a 360 deg rooftop bar, a Sushisamba restaurant, a killer spa and views across all Edinburgh.
The W had been open less than 6 months, but the service was flawless and the upgrade to a balcony room was a surprise and a delight. Check out the swanky style and the amazing view from my room!
I made the most of my stay by having dinner at SushiSamba overlooking Arthur’s Seat - the mythical location of Camelot and King Arthur’s Court - drinks on the rooftop with my college friend Lolita who was in town (Hi Lo!) and a quick dip into the spa. Again, can’t say enough about the location, style, service and a new architectural landmark in town.
One of the ‘touristy but worth’ it destinations in Edinburgh is the Royal Mile - and whether this would be your first or tenth visit, I always start my first day at the Edinburgh Castle and walk just over a mile down to the royal palace at Holyrood House. Along the way, you’ll see street performers, bagpipers, tons of shops selling tartan and a few good pubs to pop in for a pint. Get a timed ticket for the Castle and Holyrood House to avoid the lines…ahem, the cue…but give yourself time to wander off the mile and check out some of the side streets. Here’s a quick snapshot of the views including the Scott Monument - he was credited with brining back Scottish traditions of song, poetry, bagpiping and other core cultural elements - and the gorgeous streetscapes of the New Town.
Balmoral Hotel
The Balmoral Hotel is the grande dame of Edinburgh - but it seems a bit dusty in light of the W’s shiny surfaces. That being said, I always stop by for high tea. This may sound like a waste of precious vacation time or a throwback thing to do, but I highly recommend spending a few hours in the Palm Courtyard and sampling some of the 80+ teas. The service was upbeat, happy and totally gracious. Bring a book, survey your purchases from the Royal Mile, flick through magazines and newspapers or just sit back and people-watch. Tea is a time-honored tradition - so lean into it!
ONE SPA
One of my favorite getaways in the city is ONE SPA - the series of pools, hot and cold treatment rooms, experiential showers and spa services adjacent to the Sheraton hotel (also a good, more affordable choice). The stunner here is the crescent shaped outdoor pool on the rooftop that allows you to recline on daybeds built into the pool and super bubbly. The afternoon sun hits you and makes this spot just magic. I’m also a huge fan of the pink himalayan salt room, the hammam and the other steam relaxation rooms. You can buy a massage and get access, or just buy the 3 hour time package and go enjoy. This one of the best bang for buck relaxation experiences that I know of….
The Witchery
The Witchery is an inn and restaurant right at the feet of Edinburgh Castle. It’s one of the top restaurants in town (also check out Dishoom if you fancy Indian food - so good!) and parts of the building date back to 1595. This is the fine dining option in town and the atmosphere is all candlelight and dark wood. It’s pretty glam and I always stop for a meal when I’m in town. Great date night!
The Scottish Highlands
Edinburgh is a great jumping-off point for the Scottish Highlands. One of the experiences I was dying to do was the Harry Potter train over the Glenfinnan Viaduct. So much of Edinburgh has a Harry Potter feel - including the cafe where JK Rowling wrote the books, to the graveyards that provide some of the more memorable surnames (McGonigle, Weasely, etc) but the iconic train ride to Hogwarts is not CGI but comes directly from the Jacobite steam train from Fort William to Mallaig. It takes 2 hours in each direction and I would highly recommend you go with Haggis Travel and do their 1 day tour that includes the train, a private Mercedes sprinter van and a knowledgeable guide. You also stop at some of the most important battle sites in Scottish Independence, William Wallace lore and incredible views of Ben Nevis, Glencoe and Sterling Castle. One of my most favorite days ever….
