Cornwall, UK
I traveled to Cornwall as part of an ancestry trip to explore my family’s roots along the rugged coastline of southwestern England. With the help of Ancestry.com, I traced my Dad’s family - the Richards - back to the 1600s in Cornwall…some of whom were tin miners, engineers and tradespeople.
Blessed with a mild climate and picturesque fishing villages, Cornwall was once the global center for tin and copper mining in the 1800s. The landscape is dotted with remnants of abandoned mines that stretch back to the bronze age. So after a quick flight ‘across the pond,’ I picked up a rental car and drove out to Cornwall.
Land’s End
Land’s End is the westernmost point of England, where the cliffs meet the Atlantic Ocean in a spare and dramatic fashion. I stayed at the very lovely Land’s End Hotel in a room overlooking the sea, with views out to Longships Lighthouse just off the end of the peninsula. One of the busiest attractions is the world-famous signpost that marks the distance to iconic destinations around the world. The signpost is connected to a scenic coastal hike along the South West Coast Path.
The Hotel was a terrific home base to explore, as there are dozens of small towns along the north and south shores to explore. So, I made the most of my days and was glad to have a pint and a hot meal ready at the end of the day. The best feature of my room was the huge picture window overlooking the lighthouse…the sky changed colors throughout the day and it was a very peaceful scene from dusk to dawn. I highly recommend the hotel, as the crowds thin out in the late afternoon and you have the whole Land’s End complex to yourself. Here are some photos of the hotel and the coastline - just gorgeous!
Plymouth
Plymouth is the gateway city to Cornwall. It is a famed naval port known for launching the Pilgrims aboard the Mayflower, Sir Francis Drake’s circumnavigation of the globe and Charles Darwin’s voyage to the Galapagos. One of the most famous exports is a personal favorite, Plymouth Gin! Definitely soak up the scenic lighthouse, naval monuments and quaint harbour restaurants - but do not miss a tour of the Plymouth Gin Distillery and you can see the original copper still and sample the 7 botanicals that give Plymouth Gin its distinct flavor (trivia fun fact: juniper, coriander, lemon peel, sweet orange peel, sweet angelica, orris root and cardamom). You also get some samples and a drink in their newly renovated refectory bar! A definite MUST SEE!
St. Michaels Mount
In the small town of Marazion, St. Michael’s Mount is a medieval castle approached by a causeway that, depending on the time of day, is either walkable or can only be accessed by boat. Surrounded by beautiful, lush gardens, the castle is home to the St. Aubyn family, who still live here today. Family portraits line the walls of the hallways and you can step into the private chapel. The views from the ramparts are really awesome. This is a great stop along the southern coast of Cornwall.
Geevor Tin Mine
One of the main reasons I went to Cornwall was to explore my family history by visiting a Tin Mine. The Geevor Tin Mine was notoriously difficult to work in, as mine shafts went a mile underground and a mile or two out to sea to extract the valuable tin from the earth. While the mine shut in the late 1980s, it was part of the lifeblood of this region for over a hundred and fifty years. You can visit the different parts of the complex, including the machine rooms and the workmen’s changing room, before they descend into the mines for 10-hour shifts, and even go into the mine itself - albeit for a brief and claustrophobia-inducing few minutes. The changing room is left exactly intact when the mine closed as a remembrance of the men who spent their lives in extraordinary working conditions. This was so unique and interesting and while a little offbeat, it was one of the most memorable stops on my trip. Check out the mine here!
Minack Theater
An open-air theater perched on the side of a cliff, the Minack is an experience not to be missed. As you make your way down the steep sets of stairs, the seating for the theater is all built into the cliff. Grab your seat on a rock and watch the sunset as the magic happens on stage. During my visit, I saw a comedic sendup of Flaubert’s Madame Bovary - which was creative, funny and great fun. So if you’re in the mood for a little arts & culture in Cornwall, you should check out the Minack.
Surf’s Up!
Surfing is not the first thing that I thought of when planning a trip to Cornwall….but the temperate climate of the Gulfstream adds a tropical vibe to some of the north shore towns. St. Ives is beautiful, and there are some top dining spots thanks to Nathan Outlaw and Paul Ainsworth - but I really liked the SoCal vibe of Sennen Cove. A wide, flat crescent-shaped beach is great for families, dogs and yes, surfers. A perfect place for a picnic or walk along the beach, but even in early May the temps hovered around 70 degrees, so folks were out in the water!
Parting Shot
Sunset from Land’s End….
