French Riviera
The French Riviera - or Cote d’Azur - consists of glamorous beach towns strung together like a pearl necklace along the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea. From Cannes and their annual Film Festival in May, to the historic beach towns of Antibes and Nice, home to artists Picasso, Chagall and Matisse, to the glittering country of Monaco, there is no shortage of historic, arts & culture, and gastronomic adventures to be found. A convenient train connects these towns for under ten bucks. The excellent vineyards in Provence, the birthplace of rose wine, are just a short car ride away. No wonder the rich and famous have flocked to the South of France for over a century!
Nice
For a weeklong stay on the French Riviera, I highly recommend staying in Nice, France’s 5th largest city, and using that as a home base to explore. I added a few day tours to Provence and towns like Eze and Monaco, which meant no time was wasted moving from hotel to hotel, as everything was a short train or car ride away. NIce’s focal point is the pedestrian street, “the Prom” (Promenade des Anglais), a three-mile-long walkway that runs along the beach and connects all aspects of the laid-back lifestyle of Nice. One one side, beach clubs dot the rocky coast, vendors sell food and drinks to people strolling the walk, and the opposite side has high-end hotels, open-air restaurants and parks with some modern art. Climb to the top of Castle Hill for stunning views back down the shoreline…
The Prom - views of the beach and town
Old Town, Cours Saleya, Place Messina, Place du Pin
Aside from the beach, Nice has several top spots for dining, people watching and shopping. The old town is a warren of medieval streets with ice cream shops, bars, restaurants and all types of shops - go and wonder! Cours Saleya is the happening strip of outdoor restaruants - Cafe des Ami, Bistro Jennifer and La Favola are amazing. Place Messina is the town square with a grand fountain and train access. The Place du Pin is the gay part of town with great bars and restaurants - I absolutely loved Peixes (for fresh fish) and Comptoir Central Electrique!
Le Plongeoir
One of the most Instagrammable spots in the entire Cote D’azur - Le Plongeoir. A restaurant/bar perched on an impossible outcropping of rock.
Monaco
Monaco is a must-see spot on the French Riviera. The second smallest sovereign state, after the Vatican, is world renowned for its grand prix racing events, glitzy Monte Carlo casino and billionaire residents. It’s also got a Philadelphia connection with Princess Grace of Monaco - originally Grace Kelly from the City of Brotherly Love. In addition to the expensive cars and glamorous yachts, the church where Grace and Prince Rainier got married and where they are laid to rest is a tragic reminder of their fairytale romance.
Provence
The Provence wine region lies north and west of Nice, making it a great day trip to taste some delicious rose - and white and red wines! While wine production goes back to Roman times, the Provence region has made incredible strides in the last 20 years. Less formal and tradition-bound than Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Provence plays to its strengths - abundant sunshine, mountains and the sea - all combining to create delicious wines that are dry, mineral and bright. Go with Grape Tours for their rock’n Rose tour - terrific guides, and you don’t drink and drive!
Art - Picasso, Chagall and Matisse
All three artists spent their final decades in the South of France, inspired by the warm, sunny climate, the fantastic light and the friendship (and rivalry) that spurred their artistic production to new heights.
Antibes has celebrity homes, jaw-dropping yachts and beautiful scenery - but I loved the Picasso museum most of all. Picasso set up his atelier here in 1946; the building is the glorious former Grimaldi castle. A real highlight of my trip!
Both Chagall and Matisse have stand-alone museums in the northern suburbs of Nice. Chagall was instrumental in establishing a home for his biblical series of works, while Matisse’s museum is housed in a gorgeous 17th-century villa and holds some of the largest collections of his work in the world. Both can be seen in one day - take the Number 5 bus out of Nice!
Matisse discovered Nice in 1917 and lived there until his death in 1954. The colors in his works are influenced by the palette of the Cote d’Azur. Possibly my favorite artist of all time, Matisse was a master of color and pattern. This is a must-see in Nice!
Foundation Maeght
Another hidden gem for art is the Foundation Maeght - France’s first private art foundation, started in 1964 by art dealers Marguerite and Aime Maeght. The collection features an incredible sculpture garden with works by Giacometti, Calder, Picasso, Braque and Miro. Inside, Chagall, Leger and other modern masterpieces are shown. This was a highlight of my trip! It’s also a lovely 10-minute walk to the town of St. Paul de Vance and the famous La Colombe d’Or.
Paloma Beach
Named after Pablo Picasso’s daughter, who frequented this small, rocky beach in Sant-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Paloma Beach has one of the best vibes I’ve ever been to. Overlooking the bay and surrounding mountains, the beach is tucked away and lined by rock cliffs and pine trees. They have a chic beach club but reserve early. The water was crystal clear and this was my no-so-secret best beach spot of my trip.
Rothchild Villa Ephrussi
Nearby Paloma Beach in Cap Ferrat is the home of Beatrice, the Baroness Ephrussi de Rothchild of the famous and uber-wealthy European banking family. One of the richest families in history, the Rothchilds held sway for over 200 years with their economic and political influence. The Baroness’ home in Cap Ferrat includes nine themed gardens around the property and treasures in art, sculpture, furniture inside - it’s definitely worth a tour before entering the villa. If you want to see how the 1% of the 1% lived, check out the Villa Ephrussi!
Getting there
…has never been easier from the East Coast. American Airlines introduced a new PHL - NCE direct flight and the Flagship Business class product is decent and makes the 7 - 8 hour trip a breeze!