North Shore Oahu
Aloha! I am super excited to be back in Hawaii again in August of 2021! This time I'm joined by my "Ohana" - the Hawaiian word for family that includes relatives, friends, "aunties and uncles," and loved ones.
My best friend from DC, a college buddy from California, and my friends from Honolulu and the Big Island (I blogged about Tracy, Brian and Kevin from my January 2021 visit) all got together for a week of fun in Waikiki. Once again, we had an incredible time at my home base in Waikiki, the Royal Hawaiian, and checked out some great restaurants like Deck, Morimoto Asia, and lunch on the lanai at Duke's. But in this post, I want to focus on the unique North Shore of Oahu.
Known globally as the home of big wave surfing, the North Shore is all about the Banzai pipeline and the incredible surf that pounds all of the north shore beaches in the wintertime. In the summertime, however, the waves are gone, the surfers have largely moved on, and the whole North Shore eases into its beachy, laid-back vibe that celebrates the incredible beauty and culture of the area. It is a leisurely 1 - 1 1/2 hour drive from Waikiki to the North Shore along the windward coast. Even if you don't stop at any of the unique spots like Hanauma Bay, Waimanalo Beach and Kailua, the views are still incredible as you drive between the mountains and the ocean. My first stop is Laie and the Polynesian Cultural Center. Billed as "Hawaii's top attraction," the Polynesian Cultural Center is the perfect gateway to the North Shore. So let's head north!
The Polynesian Cultural Center
Stone Faced Moai at the Rapa Nui island at Polynesian Cultural Center
The Polynesian Cultural Center is awesome. I know, I know...it's super touristy, BUT I love resorts like Disneyland and PCC manages to integrate learning about the six different island nations that make up Polynesia in a fun, informative and entertaining way. Each 'island' has cultural presentations - dance, drums, singing - that highlight the indigenous arts of that area, as well as some hands-on crafts that are really great. My inside tip on PCC is to go directly to the canoes at the main entrance and take them the farthest point in the center - the Islands of Hawaii - and then work backward to the entrance. It just seems the smart way to avoid crowds by seeing the resort 'in reverse.' I really loved Fiji - for the performance, music, architecture and all around vibe. Rather than show you pics of everything to see at PCC, I'll just highlight this one island here. I'd also love to know which island you prefer!
Fiji at the Polynesian Cultural Center
Here are some of the highlights of the Fijian Island at the PCC...they had great stage shows, an original temple, a chieftain's house and an ocean-going canoe....all awe-inspiring and authentic!
Reenactment of a Fijian legend
Bure Kalou - a Fijian temple 60' tall
Fijian Chieftain's house
Fijian Canoe
Splurge for the best ticket you can afford, but I don't think you need the top ticket that includes a guide - the park is self-explanatory and part of the fun is seeing what's being presented in any given village. Do NOT sleep on the luau (for that Kalua pork, a whole roasted pig) and even the buffet dining option is extremely good, probably the best I've seen. After dinner, you will have a few hours to kill before Ha: The Breath of Life (you must stay for the show!) and there's an open-air market, with some more snacks and shops to entertain you. One note! PCC is run by the Church of Latter-Day Saints (hi Mormon friends!) and as such, there is no alcohol on the property. My friend and I ran back to the hotel for a happy hour and then made it back to the theater in plenty of time for the show. Yet another convenient factor of having your hotel attached to the Cultural Center.
Courtyard North Shore Hotel
When visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center, the pro tip is to stay at the Courtyard North Shore! I am a Marriott hotel fan, and while I love my luxury hotels, the Courtyard North Shore is absolutely the best "budget" hotel I've ever been to. There are a couple of built-in bonuses for this property: it's literally adjacent to the Polynesian center, you can walk there in about 5 minutes, there are laundry facilities in-house, I took full advantage of a mid-trip wash & fold, and the pool/jacuzzi are huge. It's clean and well-run and there are only limited lodging options on the north shore. Spending 2 weeks on Oahu can get expensive, so I cashed in 110,00 Bonvoy points for a double-queen bedded room, and it was really worth it. After a week in Waikiki and looking forward to another week on the North Shore, I used this two day visit to the PCC as a 'trip reset' - as it was easy to drive up from Waikiki, check-in in the afternoon, do laundry, go for a dip in the pool and then make it to dinner at Pounders by sunset. Then, it was early-ish to bed to make full use of the all-day pass at the cultural center the next day.
Turtle Bay Resort
One of my main reasons for returning to the North Shore was the newly renovated Turtle Bay Resort. I've been here every year around New Year's, but when they underwent a $200 million dollar renovation (!!!), I knew I had to return. The bottom line is - this is one of the absolute nicest properties I've been to. Situated in 1,400 acres on a point of land that juts out into the sea, Turtle Bay is surrounded by water, beaches, hiking trails, a stable and horse trails and two golf courses. Check out the new lobby and seating area. The infinity pool bar, called Off The Lip, is my favorite new sunset cocktail spot. Grab a drink around 5pm and let the magic happen as the sun goes down over Turtle Bay....love this view!
Check out the lobby and seating areas - gorgeous!
Turtle Bay Lounge overlooking the bay
The resort has a whole range of activities on-site that you really never have to leave the resort. There's an incredible pool deck with jacuzzis, slides, an excellent oceanfront bar, miles of hiking trails along the water, your very own beach, golf and horseback riding, biking and a lot more.
At the Stables at Turtle Bay
There's so much good stuff going on at Turtle Bay - and I'd be remiss if I don't mention the great food and beachside location of the Roy's Beach House (so good I ate there twice during my stay, which I never do) - that you might never leave the property. But - that would be a shame as there is so much fun stuff to do on the North Shore. One of the most memorable experiences I had was doing ziplining with Climbworks. Check this out!
Zipline safety check - helmet, harness...GO!
Zipline, but this time make it Spider Man!
I can't say enough about how great the staff was at Climbworks - we had three guides for our small group of about seven people and the equipment, the towers, bridges and cables were really safe and professional. I got over my fear of heights on the first run of seven and had a blast! The longest run is 1/2 mile, and the highest run is 150' off the ground. You go over working farmland of vegetables, herbs and preserved land. You first take an ATV up to the top of a mountain and zip from tower to tower over 2 1/2 hours - it's the perfect half-day! We left at 7 am and were back poolside for a late lunch. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!
North Shore Adventure Activities
One of the most fun activities I did on the North Shore was to jump off the rock, aptly named Jump Rock, at Waimea beach, the home of big wave surfing. In the summer, the waves are extremely calm and you climb up to the top of this rock and head out to the edge. My only regret is that my college buddy forgot to capture my leap of faith on video. Pro tip - time your entry to an incoming wave so you have enough water below you!
Just opposite Waimea Beach is Waimea Valley and Botanical Gardens. Sounds boring right? NOPE! It's a leisurely 2 hour hike on a paved road but you get to see all types of Polynesian flowers and trees in a sacred and ridiculously beautiful setting. There's a waterfall at the end that's well worth the hike.
Speaking of hikes - there are a ton of 'pillbox' hikes in Hawaii. Old WWII remnants of lookout towers and military bunkers, they now serve as guideposts to some of the most unobstructed views of the coastline possible own your own. This hike is great...only about 40 minutes up a very steep trail at first, the hike flattens out among some pine trees and forest before opening up to this terrific view. You'll break a sweat for sure but this one is well worth it.
Food Trucks and Shave Ice!
There are many, many food trucks dotting the North Shore of Oahu, but there's only one Giovanni's. This place is classic North Shore...only three shrimp options on the menu: scampi, hot & sour, lemon and butter. For me, it's gotta be the super-garlicky scampi. Yes, this truck may be too famous for its own good and it has been featured in every food network channel...but I contend that if you go to the North Shore and don't get Giovanni's scampi, did you really even go? When you do, be prepared for the line.
Me, Ryan and Trevor in line for Shrimp!
Matsumoto Shave Ice
The other North Shore classic is Matsumoto Shave Ice. Again, the line here can look daunting but don't worry, it moves fast. And for less than four bucks, I'm not sure you can buy this much happiness. There are as many options in shave ice as flavors at Baskin Robbins (some people swear by condensed milk), but I opted for the Matsumoto combination of lemon, pineapple and coconut. YUM!
Parting Shot
Me and my best friends in the whole world, Trevor, at Hula's Bar and Lei Stand in Waikiki!
My best friend in the whole world, Trevor, at Hula's Bar and Lei Stand in Waikiki